Adventure – Natural adventures

31. Long, tiring days

This is another of my infrequent posts which is what Natural Adventures was originally set up for. For those of you unfamiliar with my Falkland Islands journal I will offer a quick recap. In 1988 I landed a job as a fisheries scientist working with the Falkland Islands Government on a contract just shy of a year. This blog is a faithful digitisation of the journal I wrote on that trip. For me, this is a catharsis, for you it may be an insight into the mind of a 24 year old on an exciting and challenging adventure.

The scene is set in the first post ‘An Ill Wind‘, which you might like to read for context.

Suday 26 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

Aah, at last a day off. I slept so terribly, the rough sea rolled me about something rotten. It is a little better now, but would have been terrible if we had tried a set (setting the longline) this morning.

I think my stomach bugs are caused by the sashimi! my body just isn’t used to it. I must confess that the raw tuna is excellent.

Wrote letters to Mum and Ad and to Deb.

I have been considering a reply to Karen’s rather frustrated letter in which she seems to ask ‘what are we doing here?’ or something similar.

I’ve thought of many answers, but some may seem a little brutal, and sinceshe thinks I am a brute anyway I don’t want to upset her again.

Began to write my schedule for other scientists (I refuse to call them observers) who will work on the KM30 while I am on leave, namnely Crag and Phil.

I am still furious about my tax position with PDA – this company seems to be nothing but trouble.

Monday 27 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

A beautiful sunrise – I wonder if I will see such lovely sights again when I return to the UK – for starters I don’t think I will ever be up in time!

I hear Africa calling

Possibly cos I’m listening to African Sanctus at this moment.

Some more pretty corals today – I should be able to build up quite a good collection.

Several albatross were caught up in the lines today – I think they go for the squid bait when the line is deployed and get caught up, dragged down and drown – it is very sad indeed. I also thought it was unlucky to kill an albatross, but maybe that is only if it is intentional.

Black browed albatross and giant peterels alongside the Koei Maru 30, 1988

Not long now ’til home.

Tuesday 28 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

I’m getting sick and tired of saying long, tiring day, but today really was – I hope I get some decent sleep.

Had a good radio chat with Elizabeth today – she’s also due for a break in August. She gets two holidays in the time I’ve only had one! RAW DEAL!

The fishing was ace today – I hope it puts egg on the Fishing Master’s face – the crew were working fairly close to capacity I reckon.

5 tons/day, yeah pull the other one shortie!

Zone IV has been the best covered so far – all this is quite a laugh really.

Wrote a letter to Beth – very sweet of her, Charlie and Carl to write, but thwen I suppose I did write first. Letters are my life-blood.

Watching ‘With love from Oregon ’87’ for the third time – what a terrible drama, but a gorgeous half Indian (red) (OMG – we don’t say that these days – native north American) half Japanese girl of about 16 in the starring role.

I now feel at ease with all but two of the crew – ‘Rolf Harris’ and Iagi – they don’t seem to want to be friendly. I’ve made good friends with the grumpy old man – he’s really quite a good bloke.

Abe and Abe, crew members of the Koei Maru 30

Aah – shower and bed – nice.

Wednesday 29 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

A short day – it became too rough to set more than 60 lines (baskets). It was all over by 7.30am. So I decided to sleep, to make up for lost sleep last night – unfortunately this means that I won’t be tired and won’t be able to sleep tonight – vicious circle.

It’s funny but however hard I try I just can’t conjure up any original thoughts – I have none, so my diary becomes a dull, dreary account of my days and not an abstract random selection of my thoughts. I hope the reader (if any) will bear with me. It must be obvious that I’m not very happy at the moment, perhaps this can explain sume of this mundainity (is there such a word?).

As I write I often wonder if any of my children or grandchildren (if I have any) will pick up my diaries and read them. Perhaps they will understand me better for it and see into who I am a little more clearly.

29. Long-lining

Back to my roots for a moment. This whole blogging experience began in February 2015, when I was taken ill with ‘flu and had to spend several days in bed. For a long time I had wanted to digitise a journal I wrote in 1988 but simply hadn’t had the time. Being Ill afforded me the chance to get started.

Since then I have been increasingly distracted by haiku and street art and feel bad that I have for so long neglected the original purpose of ‘Natural Adventures’.

The full journal can be accesses by clicking on the homepage of Natural Adventures under the heading on the left ‘Falkland Journal, 1988’. For context it is worth reading the first entry ‘An Ill Wind’. Enjoy.

Saturday 18 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

I woke at 06:05 with a start and a half – I couldn’t believe that I had overslept by four hours. Panic! Perhaps it was the double mattress.

But there was no standby bell. There was no fishing today. I don’t understand why because the weather has been good, despite a gentle swell of about 15 feet or so. Possibly just to give the crew a rest

The reason I was given was “the parameter” ?? eh? I thought, then I realised they were saying “barometer”.

I watched Mosquito Coast – a good film, but inclined to depress me.

Now King Kong Lives has just begun. I never knew such a film existed – looks like it could be good.

I quite enjoyed King Kong, the remake, but this film looks slightly laughable.

Today I have spoken no more than fifteen words. This makes me sad.

Sunday 19 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

Another long hard day. This is more like it! I think that this is ten times better than squid fishing. I’m sure my enthusiasm will fade before long, but the fact that there are only twenty or so bottom long-liners in Japan and this is the only Jigger-long-liner makes me feel quite lucky. This is my baby and I am going to do a good job!

Today some grenadiers, and at last some Patagonian Toothfish. I think the Fishing Master was pleased, hence the saki at supper – it is potent stuff – yummie.

Crew on the Koie Maru 30 processing long-line caught fish, Falkland Islands 1988

Last night I had a very vivid dream about Mr Baker (my housemaster at school) as he was when I first met him twelve years ago. I think he is ill or dying or dead, I don’t know why, but I just get that feeling. He was so friendly (in the dream) and knew who I was – he came over to me and started chatting – I felt close to him, like I did in my final year at school. Odd.

Tomorrow I talk to Fishops via KSJ (the fishing agent) – why is it always like this? Fishops radio, like everything else is so bloody inefficient!

Monday 20 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

Today is colder and the catch is very poor – no doubt the Fishing Master will be in a rather bad mood today.

I am sure that before long, there will be an accident in the factory deck. Already the Ice Master has gaffed his own leg. Next it will be a finger in the circular saw or a hook in the face. It is bound to happen sooner or later.

‘Don’t give up ’cause you have friends
Don’t give up you’re not the only one
Don’t give up no reason to be ashamed
Don’t give up you still have us
Don’t give up now we’re proud of who you are
Don’t give up you know its never been easy
Don’t give up ’cause I believe there’s a place there’s a place where we belong’

This could keep me going for a while.

Everyone has gone to bed sharpish (it is now 7pm). After some 17 hours work I don’t yet know if we work tomorrow. I fear so, because we are steaming now to a new fishing ground.

There is a…what? I’ve forgotten – oh yes, a patrol ship the Falkland Desire on its way to deliver some letters for me. So I am writing a whole bunch of pre-paid airmail letters.

Tuesday 21 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

Oops – I overslept this morning, thinking that after such a tough day yesterday they would have a day off – no such luck.

Luckily the Fishing Master writes down times, temperatures etc. for the set and deployment, so it isn’t so bad missing the start.

Saw some penguins in a school, leaping like dolphins out of the water – and a seal, playing with a dead Salilota (red cod).

Peterels and Black browed albatross feed on discarded fish waste, Falkland Islands 1988.

I’ve taken some otoliths for myself to try to help explain the work I do.

Perhaps tomorrow I’ll take some photographs of such things (for my lectures!)

Some funny dreams last night about getting caught sleeping with Emma W by my dad – very odd – try to interpret that. All in all very confusing.

It is now about 5.30pm and I am ready for a good night’s sleep. I’ll continue to read One Hundred Years of Solitude, and then I’ll dream of Deb and home.

27. Souvenirs

I have neglected my Falkland adventure in favour of street art and haiku poems, but this blog began with a digitisation of a diary I wrote in 1988 whilst working as a fisheries scientist in the South Atlantic. I feel it is time for me to add another section from the diary. The context to this diary is set out in the first post I wrote entitled ‘An ill wind‘. I recommend you read this first post to get a feel for what this is all about. All of the posts can be seen in the ‘Falkland Journal, 1988’ category to the left of the screen. Enjoy.

Wednesday 8 June 1988. Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

Today there is a general strike. Like yesterday it is cool and overcast, but I can overcome this in my new jacket. Yo ho.

Most of the day on the Koei Maru 30. Watched bits od several films and then all of ‘Lethal Weapon’…again, and also a film called ‘Gotcha’. it was ok.

Ate my first sizable meal of sushimi today, it was good.

The Fishing Master told me, if I understood correctly, that his wife didn’t want him back, so he is prepared to stay in the zone as long as you like. Poor chap. I don’t really understand. Anyway it seems that if another observer comes on board, they will work, but not talk to him. Nice!?!

El Fogon – hotel bar – bed.

Thursday 9 June 1988. Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

‘So begins another weary day’ Grey Day.

Souvenirs

A very boring day on the Koei Maru 30. Oh I don’t know if I can bear it any more.

The crew seem to be in real ‘micky-taking’ mood, I think it has something to do with being in Montevideo.

It didn’t look like much refueling was going on today, so perhaps Brazil, here we come – who knows?

Friday 10 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

I checked out.

My visa receipt (N$ 103,172) amounts to roughly £172 for 11 days – a touch better than Emma’s

For the rest of the day I tried to kill time on the boat. I have forgotten how difficult it is. All the crew except Iyagi, who was on watch and in a horrific mood, and ‘Acne man’, had gone out on the town for the last time.

I needless to say, stayed in – no money no inclination. I bought a few special treats for myself, but stupidly some tobacco.

Saturday 11 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

We are at sea again – there was an eerie mist heralding a beautiful clear day – I took a few slides.

Leaving Montevideo, Koei Maru 30, June 1988

I have missed breakfast – quite a relief – it looks like eggs, eggs, eggs like before.

Saw loads of Magellanic penguins, but otherwise very little of interest happened.

Watched some films, including Indie Jones and the Temple of Doom – an irritating but quite enjoyable movie.

Sencho now tells me that when I go for my holiday, the Koei Maru will head for Japan – that’s not fair, it’s blackmail!

Sunday 12 June 1988. Koei Maru 30

The clocks on board are now set to Falkland time. I am overjoyed – I exaggerate. Radiod Mt ?? of KSJ to say that I’ll radio Fishops at KSJ tomorrow at 9.00 am. I have so much to say to John.

?? = Okaido or something of that sort.

It has become fairly rough and I have got my usual ‘second day at sea headache’.

I sorted things out with the Fishing Master and radio Radar – all seems ok-ish. They will also talk with John tomorrow.

Phoned Deb – highlight of the last fortnight – I am deliriously happy. I can’t help thinking though that she may have met someone – who can blame her? I would die if she had.

Abe said I could phone home tomorrow.

26. All alone

I haven’t written in this category of my blog for a long while, so for the benefit of the one or two visitors who are reading this blog for the first time I will attempt to provide a little context. It would be worthwhile having a quick read of the first entry ‘An Ill Wind‘. In short, this is a faithful digitisation of a journal I kept when working in the Falkland Islands and South Atlantic in 1988. I am doing this mostly for me, but really hope you enjoy reading it.

Sunday 5 June 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

A beautiful day indeed. I wish Jim wasn’t going or that I could go with him.I accompanied him to the departure stop and we chatted a while. Some older ladies turned up for the same tour (poor Jim). We said our goodbyes and I promised to get in touch the minute I get home.

I have been smoking too much recently, it is the influence of Jim. I must stop. I feel the damage it does to my lungs. I will limit myself to 4 only each day and vow not to buy cigarettes or tobacco in England.

I promise (signed) Stephen

The boatswain said we will probably leave Monte on or about the 10 June, so I have to cope with 4 nights alone in Monte – I will join the Koei Maru 30 the day before she sails. The Fishing Master is very curt with me – he is venting his disapproval of the proposals (for extended fishing) on me, it isn’t fair. Today I will begin to tick off the days until I return home (see back).

Alone I ventured to the Fogon – very depressing I thought – it’s not the same without a friend to chat to.

After, it was a case of a whiskey solo in the hotel bar before retiring at 9.45pm (pitiful) to read a book and write some letters. I am reading another Theroux novel, ‘the Black House’, it isn’t as attention-grabbing as some of his others.

Monday 6 June 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

The start of another week during which work on the vessel should be completed. Breakfast alone – the waiter asked me where my friend had gone. “Iguazu” I said, and thought – sod him!

It’s a no no on the jacket – possibly they’ll have one tomorrow – I doubt it. If I pay by visa it’ll cost more !?!

Well Mr Chiba (the Fishing Master) can’t hack it, he’s leaving for japan, and another Fishing Master will join the Koei Maru 30. This is a revelation and perhaps explains his odd behaviour the last few days. We had a hearty chat and quite a lot of fun, so things between us are now well again.

Refit of the processing deck on the Koei Maru 30, Montevideo, June 1988

Quite surprisingly I went to the Fogon again. Oddjob was there alone and behaved a bit like a caveman. Oddjob (not his real name) is one of the new crew members on the Koei Maru. I returned to the hotel bar and quaffed a couple of neat whiskeys and read the TLS (Times Literary Supplement), rather classy I thought. My partner in crime was a young woman (28ish) rather attractive who sat two tables away facing me. She sipped her gin and tonic and pretended to read and write some notes.

Then to bed. Alone! I could never make an advance – I’m too bloody shy.

In the Fogon there had been a power cut – ace fun – it only lasted about five minutes but for all that time the place was plunged into darkness.

Tuesday 7 June 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

The waiter volunteered the information this morning, that the solo girl is English. He made several other suggestions, I think I got the gist, but “benita chica” was one. I breakfasted alone. How is it possible to ask an attractive girl if she would mind if I sat with her, without making her feel I was trying to pick her up. I must convince myself first.

Dreamed that Louise had a helicopter crash – it was so vivid and nasty, but she lived. Somehow she caused 29 million pounds worth of damage to a new airport hangar.

I bought the jacket. I hope I like it. Hip and cool and $185 roughly £100. But best of all, made today, for me, in Uruguay.

My new jacket, Montevideo, June 1988

Receipt for my new leather jacket, Montevideo, June 1988

Guess where I ate…

Spoke to the English woman at the bar and chatted for a long time. Alas she goes tomorrow, and I will once again be alone in Monte, but it was great to have a long English conversation with someone new. Refreshing.

My opening words (so embarrassing) were “excuse me, but are you English?” She was delightful. Frightfully delicate and well spoken – about 30-35 – very reminiscent of Dr Brown (my university tutor). Independent. She was a freelance writer, but involved with English linguistics and Heinemann educational. I told her I lived near Bedford Square. I didn’t even ask her name – it didn’t seem important and hardly worth it really. So bloody English.

Watched return of the Jedi – ace film.

And drank the water from the tap in my bathroom – if I should collapse and die, this is why.

25. Topless

There may be one or two visitors who are reading this blog for the first time. To provide a little context, it would be worthwhile having a quick read of the first entry ‘An Ill Wind‘. In short this is a faithful digitisation of a journal I kept when working in the Falkland Islands and South Atlantic in 1988. Enjoy.

Wednesday 1 June 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

Summer isn’t here at last. It is clearly Autumn, the plethora of leaves littered by the London plane trees tell the story well enough. Got my camera past the dock gates – took some Montevideo piccies, but not many. It is quite nerve racking using a camera, each picture may be your last.

Since this is a stick in page, I may as well put in some misfits.

Emma's Guest House bill, May 1988 — Emma’s Guest House bill, May 1988

I was mightily pissed off by all on the KM30, they were not helpful at all. I think there is a conspiracy against me.

Iguazu is out for me, it seems that it must be for eight days or nothing. I can’t give up the time.

We went to the el Fogon a restaurant (still there, I just checked on google) for lunch and also for supper and then on to a topless nightclub.

What an experience! It was like watching an American film- the two uninterested dancers weaved and twisted out of time to the music on podia which allowed a maximum half-stride in any direction. After a while at the bar, Jim and I were approached by a call girl/prostitute who couldn’t understand why we were at the club if we didn’t want a girl. Were we gay? No.

Basically it was a knocking shop and although Jim and I want to return, I think it could be a mistake. Nonetheless it was an experience and life is made up of experiences.

Thursday 2 June 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

Fun, fun, fun – Jim and I bought leather jackets. His was much nicer than mine, but was also more than double the price. Mine was US$75.

I have decided to get another like Jim’s but at US$185 (£100) it is a little on the expy side.

Belfast Leather Factory, the place for leather jackets. Montevideo June 1988

Jim has decided on the jacket and Iguazu, lucky thing, meanwhile I am to be left, festering in Monte. I’m so glad he has been here up to now.

Nicer weather, clearer skies.

Friday 3 June 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

Shaved again – I’ve got those lumps and spots once more – it is definitely shaving that produces these infections. Will I ever be free of them?

My jacket, the more I look at it the more I feel is cheap. It will be ok for a ‘rough and tumble’ in the UK, but I am only proud of it because it is Uruguayan.

The sun is at this moment pouring into my hotel room, a seemingly impossible feat given the angle of the room, window and sun.

View from the roof of the London Palace Hotel, Montevideo. June 1988

I am quite pissed off that Jim is going on Sunday, I have enjoyed his company – being alone will be quite boring, but perhaps I’ll meet someone or something – things usually work out alright in the end.

We went again to the topless bar (called Baires). What a seedy dump. Once again we were both approached – in my case by a girl called Giselle? Anyhow we kept a stiff upper lip, refused all approaches and thought ourselves very cool for being so good. I think Jim could quite easily be tempted if I wasn’t here, but if I wasn’t here then he wouldn’t be here at all, so all’s well.

Saturday 4 June 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

A sunny day to wake up to.

Today we went wandering and Wandering. La la la. Jim cocked up on the money front and I bailed him out with US$100. I have worked out that he owes me on the basis of $1.83 dollars to the pound: £54.65 + £8.21 for the other money I lent him, giving a total of £62.86.

Went to the boat and took a hook and line (snood). Watched a German league football match on the TV.

Bought a gourd for Deb and a leather notebook, perhaps for Emily.

Lovely day all day. Jim and I went out onto the hotel roof.

After a very pleasant meal at Otto’s – a more exclusive restaurant than el Fogon we pootled on to the show below:

Flyer from the nightclub, Montevideo June 1988

It was really seedy – it included a ‘free’ drink in the £1.60 entrance fee. What a laugh. The film was a very cheap British Caligula Caesar film, terrible. The strip was more like modern dance performed entirely without interest. The girls and bloke can’t earn much more than about a tenner a day. It was a real gas. Jim and I then went off solemnly to our hotel rooms.

24. Montevideo

Today marks British Summertime and Easter Sunday, but the weather and its unpredictability has forced me indoors. I thought I’d use the time productively to update my Falkland Island journal from 1988. I urge any new readers to read An Ill Wind, the first ‘chapter’ of this personal voyage in order to understand the context.

Thursday 26 May 1988, Koei Maru 30

Yesterday I got $900 which was about £500. I hope I don’t spend this in Montevideo. I will be right pissed off if I can’t get subsistence.

It is a miserable day, but fairly calm. I will miss Port Stanley. I do miss Deb. I can’t wait to go home.

Meeting with Sam, John, Abe ‘Radar’ – Total farce – John is a fool, he has no command of the situation, he didn’t take control. I am sitting with Jim, some hours after our departure from Port Stanley. A poignant moment. Sad.

Jim and his last farewell to Port Stanley, May 1988

Leaving Port Stanley can be painful.

Friday 27 May 1988, Koei Maru 30

Mellow music, mellow mood – I am surprisingly happy. Martin Stephenson can see me through.

Not so happy now. I have just watched ‘Platoon’ on video. It is a clichéd but nonetheless depressing film. I am now ready to sleep. I am scared of montevideo, it could be quite a dangerous place and I am always a coward. I pray I don’t get any trouble. Wrote to Deb and Gavin.

Japanese wine – bloody horrible.

Saturday 28 May 1988 Koei Maru 30

Pulled off the first of my calendar tags that I made.

Had a ‘conference’ with Mr Chiba (the Captain) and ‘Radar’ (the radio operator). It seems that the KM30 intends to leave here by August 30 at the latest, after only 80 days fishing in the zone. I have the task of being the man on the spot and telling John and John that 120 days looks out of the question.

Sunday 29 May 1988, Koei Maru 30

Pay day tomorrow, actually the day after tomorrow.

‘Down and out in Beverly Hills’ – good film. Little Richard remains extremely cool.

The moon is almost full and very bright. It is much warmer here, but still no sight of South America.

Monday 30 May 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

Arrived at last – we’re here and I can’t believe it.

A long wait in a shyte hut.

It was cold – Jim had problems with customs.

It is cheap here – only $27 for a reasonable hotel. Meals out here are pretty cheap too. Jim and I ate out and I paid on Visa.

I can’t understand it.

SOUTH AMERICA!

Tuesday 31 May 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel

Now, let me write with a straight head. We waited in a derelict dock customs gate for some three hours in the cold rain, before the Japanese agent finally sorted something out. Jim in the end will have to pay $25 for his camera. Rip-off.

We saw the customs man accept bribes from an African crew. Two tins of sardines. It was shameless and very funny. It is kind of expected here.

I slept very badly, because I was so very hot and dehydrated, but at least I am here, and have survived the ordeals of the first day.

I must keep a tab on my spending. See p.94.

The cars and trucks here have to be seen to be believed – out of the ’30s ’40s and ’50s. We were given a lift by the agent in a huge Mercedes.

There is no highway code, or so it seems. The whole place is a ‘Tintin’ adventure.

I went to the boat – not much seems to have happened there yet, except a few of the machines have been uncovered. I will return there tomorrow.

We wandered fairly aimlessly about, something I love doing in foreign cities, but Jim seemed to tire of it. He derives his pleasures in different ways to me. We inquired about trips to Iguazu falls.

23. Marking time

For those reading this blog for the first time, please read the first entry called ‘An ill wind‘ which sets the context for an adventure I had as a 24 year old in 1988. I am taking the time to digitise my journal from 1988 in the Falkland Islands and am remaining faithful to my original text – this post ‘Marking time’ is a particularly drab entry, recording what was a rather boring few days. My apologies.

Sunday 22 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

The KSJ dinner/buffet was a complete success for me.

Squid and tuna sushi, cold beef, rice, squid, chicken and free drinks – it was brilliant.

Today was a lovely day although we had a couple of rain showers. Jim and Pete L and I went went to Penguin Walk and the lighthouse. I took loads of slides of penguins etc. I was happy, as I listened to ‘Smells of Summer’ on my Walkman. Sometimes this place can be such a joy – getting away from pressures. But it doesn’t last. The loneliness and tedium get get to one eventually. I want to go home so badly, to see Deb and my family. I will never be the same after this experience. I’m sure they will see a certain change in me. I feel so remote.

Penguin Walk, Falkland Islands, May 1988

Monday 23 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

I spent most of the day pretending (once again) to work at FIPASS. Not much has really happened. I felt really good having had an early and sensible night last night, but disgusted that I smoked again today. Got a letter from Pat and Roy – quite why I got it today I don’t know.

Pete and Steve left for volunteer point, in this weather I didn’t envy them. Roll on Summer time.

Went to have a meal at John’s (John and Alison went out) with Jim and Sean. Later Anna came round and we watched ‘La Bamba’ on video. Shitty film but with good music.

Tuesday 24 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

Worked again on my drawings.

The Koei Maru 30 came in. I saw the crew and all they could say was “girls, girls – jiggy-jiggy” it is very sad and depressing. I went into the galley to say hello to Nananuma. It was awful, like rekindling the flames of awful memories. Quite terrible.

In the evening Drin, Jim, Phil, Liz and I went to Monty’s and for some reason I ended up paying for the lot. We then went to the Goose and I got pretty merry. Ended up writing a drunken letter to Deb.

Wednesday 25 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

Today I have a lot of work to do. I must also buy supplies, since I expect to leave for Montevideo tomorrow.

Lost at cards. Phil won and is the champion.

Phoned Deb – it was great. She was in Edinburgh with her granny. She is revising for her exams on Wednesday.

Melanie was at the Cable & Wireless office – she is so sweet and I think it is fitting that when I telephone Deb, she is there.

I don’t want to go to sea, despite the fact that Jim is able to come. Went to the fish and chip shop with Phil and then the Globe – became a little merry. Power cut at midnight.

22. Booze and balls

Sunday 15 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

Another nothing day.

Tried to telephone home, got Mum and Ad, but I think I may have left them with a very depressed image of me…not entirely untrue. Couldn’t get Deb, perhaps I was dialing the wrong number. Instead I called Karen, but she was out, so I spoke with Matt – this was a much better conversation. I hope Deb isn’t too upset. I asked Karen, via Matt, to ring Deb to tell her I had tried to call.

Had lunch at the Boathouse – not bad really, and cheap.

I want to start saving some money. Emma’s really is a piss-hole, but who cares? Tomorrow I begin some work, but I don’t quite know what.

I like not having a beard.

Monday 16 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

My work begins. Spent most of the bloody day in front of a computer doing data entry.

Lunch at the Goose, bought for me by Jim.

Not a bad day – blue sky, but cold and quite windy.

I am to begin work on a strategy for the long-lining. I hope I am up to it.

I had a great evening – just me, Phil and Jim at the Goose. Not over-drinking, but having a pleasant number of beers and at last finding things to talk about.

Jim took the bull by the horns and went to visit KSJ to ask permission for passage to Montevideo…then he went and told Jacko, who I don’t think was too pleased having previously said no.

Beautiful sky at night – the stars were spectacular.

Tuesday 17 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

A day at FIPASS (the floating port facility left over from the war) – ok – beautiful day. Sky blue – no wind. Things are beginning to happen really quickly now. I am much happier than I was the other day.

Phoned Deb and got through, it was lovely to speak to her – she sounded very remote (not distance-wise, but emotionally). She is working very hard for her exams in June – I hope she does well. Her voice was tired and dopey.

Evening was a booze up in the Globe. It was very interesting all about PDA *(my employers) and Peter Derham in particular.

Wednesday 18 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

First full day at FIPASS – also a letters day, but it was puny – one TLS, that’s it! what a contrast to yesterday weather-wise. Terrible wind and rain. Unbearable.

I am back at Emma’s now and am so sad for the kids here. No love, no attention. Their mother is having a breakdown I think, she can’t cope with their crying and only compounds the problem by screaming ‘shut up!’ at them. It is no wonder that they are so friendly with the guests – they need the company. I am concerned; I don’t think that she’s violent yet, but it is just a matter of time. The war is over now – at last.

On reading this last passage again in 2016, with a family of my own, I am curious about my view of the situation at Emma’s Guest House. I know now how hard it can be bringing up children. I think I saw the world through a young man’s eyes and my values and judgments were different. I wonder what I would have thought of the situation if I were the me of now, and whether I would have tried to help.

Thursday 19 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

Out at FIPASS again for the morning. Drin and Liz also went out. The storm has died down and it is a fairly calm, but overcast day.

Looking forward to the May Ball tomorrow, but what costume shall the poor ‘boy’ wear (corruption of and reference to a Japan cover of a Velvet Underground song).

FIPASS is like a moon base, quite claustrophobic and synthetic – the strip lights etc.

We moved more of the office over and now the computers are at FIPASS. I will work from there from now.

Went to the Desire for a booze up down at FIPASS – it was a resounding success. I was plastered and puked at Emma’s (in the sink). Whart a great evening – an excess of McEwans. Jim and John and Phil and Steve and Peter and Alistair were there.

Friday 20 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

Ball night. Sean found an egret and brought it into the new office.

Mega piss up at the ball. Dear oh dear.

Globe – Goose – Ball.

Whiskey coat! ‘just going for a coat’.

May Queen – Melanie came third. I was forced into a dance with Miranda.

Very very pissed.

Post – letters from Charlie and Beth – I was very chuffed to hear from them. Also from Granny who seems to be a little better, from Karen too.

Jim fell over!

Saturday 21 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

Deb has sent me a fun pack. There was a packet of cartridges, some newspapers, a Private Eye and some crisps – also a rose – one which I gave her. Here are some petals

Deb sent this before, but I’ve only just gotten round to sticking it in. I miss her terribly. I want to be at home. (This musician, Martin Stephenson, was to play a significant part in my adventure at a later point)

The day was beautiful and sunny. Tonight is the second ball preceded by the KSJ dinner.

21. Land at last

The Falkland journal continues…

Wednesday 11 May 1988, Koei Maru 30/Falkland Desire

Well I’m angry and upset. I still haven’t been picked up. I bet I end up staying at least another week. I think I’ll go bananas soon. I am getting pissed off. If I come back with the Koei Maru 30 on the 25th, I’ll have spent 6 weeks on this bathtub. What a nightmare. I want to go back to Port Stanley and I don’t want any fuss. Balls.

And as the philosophy goes – everything always works out in the end (unless you die, and if you die it doesn’t matter anyway).

I was woken by the Sencho (Captain in Japanese) at about 3pm…”Fishery Patrol”. This was good news. the Desire (a patrol ship called the Falkland Desire) had come to collect me. I spoke with them and packed quickly. In the process I forgot my chocolate cake, my casettes, my loligo and my films. What a bloody pain in the arse, but small prices to pay for freedom.

What really pisses me off though is that had I not called KSJ (the Japanese fishing company) to query my pick up date and time, I would never have been rescued. Some bloody organisation this is.

Anyway, I am on the Desire and had a wonderful mixed grill and trifle for supper, followed by a Bond movie.

I am happy.

Thursday 12 May 1988, Falkland Desire

Having slept pretty well from 8pm to 1.30am, I am now wide awake, and there is no chance of me going back to sleep, so it is letters and diary time.

The crew (apart from one or two exceptions) are almost entirely fat. Too many fried meals and not enough exercise.

Picked up Elizabeth. (Another scientist on a different vessel)

Got well tanked up in the evening. Home tomorrow.

Friday 13 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

Friday 13th – what a day to come to port! We came into Port William by 9.30am and went to Port Stanley. Jim is resigning! This is terrible news. He’ll be going at the end of this month. My only ally in this adversity. I will feel very alone once he has gone.

A plethora of letters. It’s nice – it makes all my letter writing worth it. I actually feel a bit of a plonker because I get so much more mail than anyone else. Sorry to find out that granny is so unwell – if I were a believer I would pray for her – I know that she is safe in her own faith though. It is grandpa I also worry about.

Met Phil at last and am sharing a room in ‘Emma’s’ with him – we all got well pissed in The Globe and in John’s house. The Suntory whiskey was worth opening.

I got home and read the remainder of my letters. I cried unashamedly at granny’s letter – I don’t think she’ll last much longer.

It is nice to be clean shaven after so long with my beard.

Saturday 14 May 1988, Port Stanley, Emma’s Guest House

A day of indecision, I wandered around Stanley and found Jim at Fishops (Fisheries Operations). Went to the Upland Goose for lunch with Jim, Anna and Sean.

Hulks at the Eastern end of Port Stanley

Nothing to do, but it is quite nice.

Ended up watching Mona Lisa at Goodwyn’s and supping Tim’s Whiskey. Then went on to The Globe for a few minutes before trundling off to the Town Hall to see the C.S.E show (Combined Services Entertainment – The islanders benefitted from the shows that came to entertain the troops at Mount Pleasant air base).

It was terrible – naf, but in a corny way, quite fun.

a compere who kept saying “no”, like they do when they tell jokes and laughing through his teeth ‘sheee’
a dancing troop called Sassie? terrible dancers
a corny magician, old tricks
a dreadful female singer
a band

They tried hard and I appreciated their effort and anyway, it was something to do.

Met a Korean man called JK. Great bloke and long-line skipper for twenty years.

Got pissed in The Rose and back at Tim’s. Watched a video.

Liverpool lost the FA Cup final to Wimbledon. Yahoo.

old news…AFC lost to Luton 3-2. I am desperate.

20. Frustration

To those reading this category (Falkland Journal, 1988) for the first time, I urge you to read my first ever post – ‘An Ill Wind‘ to provide context for this post, which is the 20th extract from my 1988 journal.

Saturday 7 May 1988, Koei Maru 30

I am guilty of neglect. I seem to either write letters or my diary, one usually at the expense of the other. It is late Saturday now, I have just had my breakfast. I keep having bonkers dreams, I am plagued with them.

I wrote to the Myers and to Deb and Alex.

I hope so much that Arsenal won last night, yesterday, today I mean. I must be one of their remotest supporters, I may try to join the fan club.

When I think of the only club in London, I think of Gavin and Sean and how lucky they are that they will see the Littlewoods Cup final! Sean will actually be there, lucky pig.

Time goes by. Soon it will be Sunday and soon I will get picked up by the patrol ship. Yahoo!

I took a whole bunch of really boring sunrise shots and tried to photograph a number of birds. It will be a very dull film I think.

Sunrise in the South Atlantic, 7 May 1988

Sunday 8 May 1988, Koei Maru 30

I am on to my next 10 Japanese letters! recap on: a i u e o

The next bunch are Sa, Shi, Su, Se, So; Za, Ji, Zu, Ze, Zo

Why is it so bloody difficult?

Wrote a long letter to Mum and Ad, I sent another £15 for developing films.

Monday 9 May 1988, Koei Maru 30

At last I wrote to Clive, but it is very late of me to reply.

I am very bored. Tonight we’ve caught nothing, I have been unable to work. It is pitiful.I am being paid to fritter my time away. Possibly the worst aspect is that during these bad catches I smoke maybe two cigarettes. I must stop before it becomes a habit.

I am sitting listening to my African tape. I must go to Africa – I hear it calling. I am desperate to go there. I want to work in Africa.

Revision:

How could I have dared neglect to put in the article about Uderzo? What a terrible blunder.

Jim was on the radio this time, it was good to talk to him. He enjoys a good chat as opposed to a quick talk! It is good.

It looks like I may be marooned for a few more days! The patrol ship had to arrest a Korean ship and returned to Port Stanley without little old me. It is possible she’ll steam out over the next couple of days to collect me – who knows? Slightly depressing.

It seems as though Jim wants to come to Montevideo – I hope it can be arranged, it would be good to have some company.

Tuesday 10 May 1988, Koei Maru 30

Another five katakana I think.

What a terrible day – nothing, absolutely nothing to do. I think I’ll cry if I don’t get picked up soon. Only my South American music is keeping me sane at the moment, or is it the fact that I’m listening to it at all an indication of my insanity? Some would think so.

Wrote a letter to R&C, a bit short and feeble, but I’m running out of things to tell people.

My room stinks! I think it is because I spend so much time in it. It is stale and nasty, but what can I do?

Well, I’m angry and upset, but that is tomorrow.

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