The sun touched sea slaps
the boat and our lines tighten
and cut on the rise.
by Scooj
Tag: fish
24. Montevideo
Today marks British Summertime and Easter Sunday, but the weather and its unpredictability has forced me indoors. I thought I’d use the time productively to update my Falkland Island journal from 1988. I urge any new readers to read An Ill Wind, the first ‘chapter’ of this personal voyage in order to understand the context.
Thursday 26 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
Yesterday I got $900 which was about £500. I hope I don’t spend this in Montevideo. I will be right pissed off if I can’t get subsistence.
It is a miserable day, but fairly calm. I will miss Port Stanley. I do miss Deb. I can’t wait to go home.
Meeting with Sam, John, Abe ‘Radar’ – Total farce – John is a fool, he has no command of the situation, he didn’t take control. I am sitting with Jim, some hours after our departure from Port Stanley. A poignant moment. Sad.
Leaving Port Stanley can be painful.
Friday 27 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
Mellow music, mellow mood – I am surprisingly happy. Martin Stephenson can see me through.
Not so happy now. I have just watched ‘Platoon’ on video. It is a clichéd but nonetheless depressing film. I am now ready to sleep. I am scared of montevideo, it could be quite a dangerous place and I am always a coward. I pray I don’t get any trouble. Wrote to Deb and Gavin.
Japanese wine – bloody horrible.
Saturday 28 May 1988 Koei Maru 30
Pulled off the first of my calendar tags that I made.
Had a ‘conference’ with Mr Chiba (the Captain) and ‘Radar’ (the radio operator). It seems that the KM30 intends to leave here by August 30 at the latest, after only 80 days fishing in the zone. I have the task of being the man on the spot and telling John and John that 120 days looks out of the question.
Sunday 29 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
Pay day tomorrow, actually the day after tomorrow.
‘Down and out in Beverly Hills’ – good film. Little Richard remains extremely cool.
The moon is almost full and very bright. It is much warmer here, but still no sight of South America.
Monday 30 May 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel
Arrived at last – we’re here and I can’t believe it.
A long wait in a shyte hut.
It was cold – Jim had problems with customs.
It is cheap here – only $27 for a reasonable hotel. Meals out here are pretty cheap too. Jim and I ate out and I paid on Visa.
I can’t understand it.
SOUTH AMERICA!
Tuesday 31 May 1988, Montevideo, London Palace Hotel
Now, let me write with a straight head. We waited in a derelict dock customs gate for some three hours in the cold rain, before the Japanese agent finally sorted something out. Jim in the end will have to pay $25 for his camera. Rip-off.
We saw the customs man accept bribes from an African crew. Two tins of sardines. It was shameless and very funny. It is kind of expected here.
I slept very badly, because I was so very hot and dehydrated, but at least I am here, and have survived the ordeals of the first day.
I must keep a tab on my spending. See p.94.
The cars and trucks here have to be seen to be believed – out of the ’30s ’40s and ’50s. We were given a lift by the agent in a huge Mercedes.
There is no highway code, or so it seems. The whole place is a ‘Tintin’ adventure.
I went to the boat – not much seems to have happened there yet, except a few of the machines have been uncovered. I will return there tomorrow.
We wandered fairly aimlessly about, something I love doing in foreign cities, but Jim seemed to tire of it. He derives his pleasures in different ways to me. We inquired about trips to Iguazu falls.
20. Frustration
To those reading this category (Falkland Journal, 1988) for the first time, I urge you to read my first ever post – ‘An Ill Wind‘ to provide context for this post, which is the 20th extract from my 1988 journal.
Saturday 7 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
I am guilty of neglect. I seem to either write letters or my diary, one usually at the expense of the other. It is late Saturday now, I have just had my breakfast. I keep having bonkers dreams, I am plagued with them.
I wrote to the Myers and to Deb and Alex.
I hope so much that Arsenal won last night, yesterday, today I mean. I must be one of their remotest supporters, I may try to join the fan club.
When I think of the only club in London, I think of Gavin and Sean and how lucky they are that they will see the Littlewoods Cup final! Sean will actually be there, lucky pig.
Time goes by. Soon it will be Sunday and soon I will get picked up by the patrol ship. Yahoo!
I took a whole bunch of really boring sunrise shots and tried to photograph a number of birds. It will be a very dull film I think.
Sunday 8 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
I am on to my next 10 Japanese letters! recap on: a i u e o
The next bunch are Sa, Shi, Su, Se, So; Za, Ji, Zu, Ze, Zo
Why is it so bloody difficult?
Wrote a long letter to Mum and Ad, I sent another £15 for developing films.
Monday 9 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
At last I wrote to Clive, but it is very late of me to reply.
I am very bored. Tonight we’ve caught nothing, I have been unable to work. It is pitiful.I am being paid to fritter my time away. Possibly the worst aspect is that during these bad catches I smoke maybe two cigarettes. I must stop before it becomes a habit.
I am sitting listening to my African tape. I must go to Africa – I hear it calling. I am desperate to go there. I want to work in Africa.
Revision:
How could I have dared neglect to put in the article about Uderzo? What a terrible blunder.
Jim was on the radio this time, it was good to talk to him. He enjoys a good chat as opposed to a quick talk! It is good.
It looks like I may be marooned for a few more days! The patrol ship had to arrest a Korean ship and returned to Port Stanley without little old me. It is possible she’ll steam out over the next couple of days to collect me – who knows? Slightly depressing.
It seems as though Jim wants to come to Montevideo – I hope it can be arranged, it would be good to have some company.
Tuesday 10 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
Another five katakana I think.
What a terrible day – nothing, absolutely nothing to do. I think I’ll cry if I don’t get picked up soon. Only my South American music is keeping me sane at the moment, or is it the fact that I’m listening to it at all an indication of my insanity? Some would think so.
Wrote a letter to R&C, a bit short and feeble, but I’m running out of things to tell people.
My room stinks! I think it is because I spend so much time in it. It is stale and nasty, but what can I do?
Well, I’m angry and upset, but that is tomorrow.
19.Turning Japanese
Wednesday 4 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
It is almost the end of Wednesday. Yesterday was quite a busy day…by yesterday I mean last night. Although there were very few squid, I managed to do two samples. I also helped remove the viscera from the bodies for my second sample. These squid will be used as presents for the crew’s families.
I cannot eat my breakfast yet because all the crew members are asleep in the ship’s mess/saloon. I must wait until the ship stops, although I have no idea when that will be.
Thursday 5 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
It is just as well that I drew those pictures, because I wrote practically nothing yesterday. Instead I read and wrote letters. This evening I have hurt my back again, just a little twinge this time, but a warning
We have sailed west to the edge of the zone. I would not like to leave it. I think the Argies have some fishing patrol boats of their own, and I would not like to be boarded by an Argentinian fisheries officer.
I am now looking forward to a bit of time in Port Stanley, I have been out at sea this time for three weeks now! I would quite like a bit of fun time on a patrol vessel – I would like to use the gymnasium.
Slept very badly once again. I may have to resort to a couple of stugeron fairly soon. Watched Deathwish – a good film despite having seen it twice before and it being in Japanese! Another week is over. Three gone, how many left to go?
I want Stanley (nowlookatthemessyou’vegottenmeinto) soon. I cannot eat much more of this rich food without having a heart attack.
Friday 6 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
Not a bad day. The best part was hearing from John on the radio that I would be picked up by a fishing patrol boat on Tuesday or Wednesday next week. Obviously a lot depends on the weather, but I live in hope. Otherwise I could be stuck on here until about 20 May – this would be terrible.
I may have made another real blunder on the radio, when complaining to John that the conversion factor is way out. He seemed to brush it aside casually and changed the subject pronto. oops!
I had three beers (and 3three cigs – God they’re bad for you) and watched TV and slept, and slept, and slept.
Curious dreams:
- Busking competition in a library, some trendy geezer borrowed my guitar and played it from the neck, letting it dangle…
- Jim and I are going to a pub in Highgate full of weirdos and under-age drinkers – I try to order a bottle of cider for Jim and two pints of bitter for me. It takes an hour for me to get served, during which time Tippy (my step brother) appears with a rucksack on his back. Jim has disappeared when I get served, somebody nicks my bottle of cider and I get furious and rude, but end up with a beer tipped all over me in the struggle.
- Working in a bank with a whole bunch of moaning graduates. Mealtime is £10 a head to eat at the bank, with yellow lobster, cucumbers, lettuce, salami, but nothing to drink, so we all trundle off down the road…it becomes Covent Garden…to a small shop to get some orange drink from a kind of pump, which I can’t operate. Too bad, I only get half an orange drink. I return to the bank, the front of which has turned into a pub, but the bank is inside, to find that most people have now finished their lunches. I contemplate this and decide that sandwiches are the best way out of this terrible situation.
18. May Days
To any visitors that will be reading this category (Falkland Journal, 1988) for the first time, it might be worthwhile reading the first post ‘An Ill Wind‘ which sets the scene and gives a little bit of context to the blog category.
Just to recap, at the age of 24 I was offered a job as a Fisheries Scientist and flown away from London all the way to the Falkland Islands in the South Atlantic. Almost immediately I was sent out to sea on a Japanese squid fishing boat (a jigger called Koei Maru 30), and am now some three weeks or so into my second voyage. The journal entries are as they were written, with only the smallest grammatical edits.
Sunday 1 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
Is today Mayday? Maypoles and all that lark. What a lovely month May is, and yet so incredibly innocuous – it is neither Winter nor Summer, it is not early Spring – it is a corridor month. I daresay that for people with birthdays in May, it is highly important and memorable, but for me it is nothing – it is a month I remember little about – what happens in May? (How things change, it is now my favourite month of the year)
I am becoming a lazy arse – I don’t like it.! I had plans for learning some Japanese today but have not got round to it.
I must structure my life a bit – getting up is the first problem. Sleeping is another. But I soldier on with Queen Mab – she prevents my complete insanity. So kind of her. The fairies’ midwife.
Which oft the angry Mab with blisters plagues,
Because their breaths with sweetmeats tainted are.
Sometimes she gallops o’er a courtier’s nose,
And then dreams he of smelling out a suit;
And sometimes comes she with a tithe-pig’s tail,
Tickling as parson’s nose as a’ lies asleep’
And then dreams he of another benefice;
Sometime she driveth o’er a soldier’s neck,
And then dreams he of cutting foreign throats,
Of breeches, ambuscadoes, Spanish blades,
Of health’s five fathom deep; and then anon
Drum in his ear, at which he starts and wakes;
Had a terrible sleep. The sea became pretty rough and it was impossible to stay still. I wish I could handle that.
Monday 2 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
Into May! it looks like O-Zone will be over pretty soon – I have enjoyed it very much – I wonder if and when it will be made into a film – it lends itself very well to that – I wonder if Paul Theroux actually wrote it with a film in mind.
I will now try to learn Katagana in many slow steps.
Called Crag on the radio – it was great to talk to him – he is very lively on the radio. I mentioned the problem of accommodation and he said he’ll do his best to get me into Goodwyn’s or Emma’s. I’m not so sure about the latter. Jim will be in Stanley this week – lucky pig, perhaps he’ll be on the radio on Friday.
Began reading Ray Bradbury’s ‘the Illustrated Man’.
It’s funny, but I don’t think I have mentioned that I’m going to Montevideo yet, although I’ve known about it for more than a week now. I’m so excited about it, but also anxious (when was I ever not?). To be honest, I don’t really know what I’m going to be doing there, but I will be the last to complain.
Tuesday 3 May 1988, Koei Maru 30
Wrote a letter to Deb and a short note to Jasper with ‘reader’s tips’ in. I cried with laughter when I read it through.
A terrible night for fishing – once again I couldn’t sleep, it is so difficult with a rolling boat. Consequently I woke up really late. 10pm – I haven’t had breakfast yet, but am embarrassed to go to the mess to get it because it is so late and I can hear 8 or 9 voices coming from there. I don’t really want any breakfast, I can do quite nicely in my cabin, but often feel obliged to eat when I know a meal has been cooked for me. There is nothing worse than eating a meal you don’t particularly like, and being watched by several inquisitive faces.
Now I am looking forward to getting off this ‘junk’ for a few days. I want to get back to land, breath fresh air, eat bread/toast, talk to people.
Relax Steve, for God’s sake relax. I am a tense bunny.
17. Birthday
The digitisation of my 1988 Falkland Islands journal continues…
Wednesday 27 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
Rudely woken at 1pm – it was the fishery patrol ‘Falklands Right’ calling. (At that time the Falkland Islands fisheries directorate had two fisheries patrol vessels, the ‘Desire’ and the ‘Right’, named after the Island’s motto ‘Desire the Right’) They had come to deliver my books (which I notice are already stamped with Falklands Fisheries Directorate! – don’t they trust me or something?)
It was good to speak English and see European faces, even for a fleeting moment. It is also the first time I have seen the ‘Right’. I wish I had taken some photographs. I spoke to ‘John’ on the radio and asked if it was the same ‘John’ as I had spoken to before, and then at last he helped me put two and two together. It was John Clarke all the time – silly me.
The books are pretty good, but either too simple or too complex. When I am in England I will buy the Kanji book, it looks fascinating.
The newspapers from home are a right mixed bunch, some weeks or months old, others pretty recent. It is nice to have them though.
I had forgotten about page three girls…hideous!
Thursday 28 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
It is now the 28th. I cannot believe how time is flying out here. I don’t seem to be able to write my diary quickly enough. I have just had the best sleep since I arrived on the KM30. Nine uninterrupted hours – few dreams, no nightmares, just restful sleep. Before going to sleep I radioed Port Stanley and spoke to John B. I am so bloody clumsy on the radio it is pathetic. I tried to indicate that Jim and I would like to coordinate being in Port Stanley together – I felt such a sword (dick) asking him about the possibilities. The point (which I know well) is to have as few observers in town at the same time. But that doesn’t stop it from being a lonely job.
I couldn’t bring myself to talk to him about accommodation – that would be really pushy – but I really don’t want to go back to the Malvina Guest House.
Abe radar is a good bloke – I was embarrassed to wake him up for the radio call. He always gives me a beer (and cheese this time) and a couple of cans for my fridge. I am always humbled because they give me things all the time, but I am unable to give them anything back.
Watched the sunrise, but that is tomorrow…
Friday 29 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
Saw the sunrise. It was beautiful – I took some photographs just befort the sun broke the horizon. I was quite moved.
Another bit of Falkland news, This is becoming a bit of a FI scrapbook, but that’s OK.
It is a beautiful day, the sky is really blue and the sun is shining – I only wish I didn’t have to go to sleep now.
I woke up, once again, having had a lovely sleep – it will be murder getting back into a daytime routine again. I am almost exactly opposite a normal sleeping regime!
Watched some more Japanese TV. Their quiz shows are terrible – money this, money that. one of the quiz games is called ‘how much’ – you have to guess what a certain item in a short film clip costs in the currency of the nationality shown in the film. Stupid or what? Japan is the ultimate consumer society. Completely bonkers.
Saturday 30 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
Deborah’s Birthday! Nothing else matters about today. It is 03:00 here and in the UK it is 08:00 and Deb will be up and probably having breakfast (or perhaps having an indulgent lie in). I am thinking of her very much and hope that Karen sent the flowers I asked her to. Deb will be touched if she gets them, I know.
23 today. She makes me feel old.
Correction, one other thing matters today and that is the welfare of Arsenal. I hope they won…come on you reds!
I have become a sleep zombie. I had about 7 hours of sleep today, got up, had a rather yucky breakfast and then slept for 2-3 more hours. Bonkers.
Sleeping at the wrong times is just as painful as it is, say, when you sleep in the day – real ‘boiled egg’. (Boiled egg is a family expression for feeling lousy on account of getting up too early, for example to catch an early holiday flight).
16. Scissors, Paper, Stone
Saturday 23 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
I keep wondering if I heard correctly on the radio that I am going to Montevideo, the only thing I remember about the conversation is that I will have a long-lining trip before I go to the UK, which confirms that I must be going to Monte. Ace!
I hope Arsenal won today and the top five clubs all lost.
I really miss Saturdays at home – either at a match or watching old Des and the teleprinter on TV.
Sunday 24 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
The first thing I learnt today was how to play oli oli iddle (Scissors, paper, stone) in Japanese:
the paper is called ‘Pa’
the scissors called ‘Choki’
the stone is called ‘Gu’
Just before that, I knackered my back lifting a huge basket of squid. Bloody foolish. It hurts a lot. I took an asprin and had a fag. I hate to admit it, but I’ve started smoking rollies…only about one a day, if that. I don’t like them, but I am going through a rebellious phase and they make me feel the part of the wild marine biologist, beard and all.
The reason the crew played oli oli iddle, was because the loser had to provide a box of chocolates as a snack for everyone. The loser was Abe radar. He was amusedly pissed off.
I have spent at least two hours drawing onto pieces of paper the numbers 31-35 and 36-40! This is for labeling the boxes of squid and refers to the number of pieces per box.
I asked for a crate of coke or juice earlier today. I think it has caused as bit of a fracas. I know I was being talked about by Nananuma, the captain and other crew members, by the glances which were cast my way during the conversation. It is very unnerving, especially when you can’t communicate things properly.
Monday 25 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
For the first time on this voyage, I kept the same hours as the crew and it was good to see the sunrise. I radioed Stanley at 10:00 and spoke to John and confirmed the Montevideo plan, so there is no doubt in my mind. It is on, as far as things can be at Fishops.
I was on a real high before going to bed, but now don’t feel so sure. I miss home. Still I should be back in a matter of two months or so. After that being out here will be easy.
Yesterday was a ‘holiday’ for the crew – a rough sea and an appalling catch. I was lucky to get even one sample.
I have got to get my letter-writing act together, I am falling well behind.
Yesterday I developed my own clinometer. It is built using the window (porthole) catch as the pointer and a piece of paper in the shape of an arc as the dial. I think it is ace. It is graduated with 15 degrees, 10 degrees, 10 degrees.
Tuesday 26 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
I can’t honestly believe that I wrote nothing today – what terrible neglect. Probably because I began reading O-Zone and also watched the film ‘Parker’ – a great film. Not much else to say.
42. North Street, Aldi car park
During this year’s Upfest 2015, arguably the premium wall was handed to Argentinian artist Martin Ron. This enormous mural is a picture of his girlfriend, her torso emerging from what looks like a tablecloth. I am very fond of the fish, but am not sure what it symbolises.
This mural has been painted over an earlier Upfest (2011) mural by German artist duo Herakut. You can see what it looked like in this post from zaqwsxcderfvbgtyhn.
As always, these things are ephemeral, and I’m sure that this mural will itself be over-painted in due course.
15. Desperate men
Thursday 21 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
Today hasn’t actually begun yet or at least I suppose it has in Japan and will in the UK fairly shortly. Bit of a cock up on the time front. Well I slept for some 12 hours on and off – bad dreams all the time. I lay awake for half that time. Missed all daylight – God it’s so depressing doing that. I am planning to go to bed at about 10-11 this morning with a view to radioing Stanley at 10 on Friday. Tonight’s fishing completes my first week back of the second voyage – I suppose that has to be good news.
My mind keeps going back to mum on the phone saying “write a book”, “why not?” – I could think of a million reasons why not, beginning with ‘I have nothing to say, nothing new happens’ – too difficult – I cannot express myself – nobody would find it interesting.
I had a good sleep and feel quite refreshed. Changed my socks, or at least my 7-day-old pair walked away from me. In fact they weren’t too smelly.
‘Name of the Rose’ is getting good, but I can’t help feeling that Umberto Eco’s vanity has entered into it a little too much. He uses the characters to show how much he himself knows about monastic history from the period 1100 to 1400 or so. Why not write a history instead of a thriller? Vanity? money? I wrote to Deb and to Andy W yesterday. I have become a little less prolific recently, probably all part of my general gloom at the moment.
Friday 22 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
I have managed to get through midnight without my customary snooze, which gives me great cheer and I don’t feel too tired yet, which is a good sign. I have learned to make myself as comfortable as I can and use the mattress from the other bunk to sit across my bed on. It is not ideal, but more comfortable than my fold up writing chair.
I feel it is time to enter some football; results and tables:
I’ve been meaning to do that for ages and feel really good now that it is done. I only yearn now for my next bunch of newspapers.
21:30 hrs – What a lot to talk about.
I must just say on e thing that made me laugh – one of the crew was standing with 5 or 6 packets of liquorice comfits and he said ‘no goo’, whereupon he promptly filled his hand with some and swiftly chucked them in his mouth.
Are these desperate men?
Are these men desperate?
These men are desperate
These are desperate men
Desperate these men are
Desperate men these are
These men desperate are
These desperate men are.
Best news is that I’m going to Uruguay! Yahoo! – all payed for etc etc.
Shit I’m lucky.
It has all come about because of some argument to do with the KSJ/Fisheries Directorate agreement. It seems that KSJ want an observer to watch and report on the refit in Montevideo and count this as part of the 120 day programme of long-lining. Still, I’m not complaining, especially as it now means that my leave will be in July/August instead of June. Much better for everyone.
14. Pissed off
My 1988 Falkland Island journal continues…
Sunday 17 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
Getting pretty pissed off out here – the weather is non-descript, overcast. I am in permaslumber and can’t break out. My cabin is too hot, probably causing my drowsiness, the work is bloody boring and most other activities send me to sleep.
I found an interesting letter in the TLS. I wonder if Ad had tactfully neglected to send the issue with the original article in it – I will have to ask him.
I have seen two more birds, one yesterday and one today:
a little grey and white bird, round and small, ‘flying’ underwater. I’ve seen it on the wall chart, but don’t remember the name;
a tern-like bird, very white with a grey cap and light grey wing uppers. A sleek bird with a forked tail.
Monday 18 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
I damn well slept again from 24:00 until 02:00. It is driving me bonkers. I shouldn’t need an ‘afternoon’ kip after having some ten hours or more night’s sleep. What is happening to me?
Walked into the bridge to find the Fishing Master in his underpants and vest. This is the first time this has happened. It is impossible to know what to do. I cannot ignore him (which I do), because it is so obvious. I cannot leave, because I have work to do.
I slept from 06:30 to 12:30, ready to eat steak, but I have just found the Fishing Master in the kitchen and I think he is eating my food. Revenge is sweet.
I managed to get a steak in the end. Wrote to Nick B and to Deb.
I have bumped my head countless times today. It’s a bastard, I’ve got lumps on my head now. It seems to happen as I pass through doorways.
Tuesday 19 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
I hate to admit it, but I wrote nothing today…little happens.
The young 20 year old crew member is sick.
Wednesday 20 April 1988, Koei Maru 30
I think this trip will go faster than the last, especially since I know that it is the last voyage for squid.
I also know that the KM30 will call in at Port Stanley on the 15th to tranship squid with the last KSJ reefer before setting out for a further 10 days.
I set a good quiz for Gavin, which I enjoyed doing, but at this moment, 05:00 I am very pissed off indeed – I don’t know why, I suppose there are many reasons. One which occurs to me immediately is that squid are horrible. I hate bloody squid…I’m even beginning to hate the taste of it. This is a shitty job anyway – yeah, great, so I’ll have a few anecdotes to bore my friends with, but basically it’s shitty. Who else would do this kind of work, that had spent 4 years at university? nobody.
Natural adventures 